Sewing-machine.



Patented Aug.23,1910.

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In. Nonni: r: rn; La. 'Asnmcvom n c y H. F. MOORE,

SEWING MACHINE.

APPILI'UATIOH FILED JUHE 2, 1908.

Patented Aug-23, 1910. A s snnnrs-snnirr s.

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H. F. MOORE., SEWING MACHINE.

LPPLIOATIGB FILED JUHEZ. 1908.

Patented Aug.23,191o.

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v H. F. MOORE.

SEWING MACHINE. l LPPLIOLTIOI I'ILED'UIE I. 1.908.

rammed Aug.23,1910.

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SEWING MAGHINE. antonin rum: .runs 2.1m.

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H. r. MOORE.

snwnm MACHINE. K v Y K APPLIOATIOE FILED JUNE 2, 1908.

Patented Aug. 23,19`10.

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HERMAN F. MOORE, OF VENTURA, CALIFORNIA.

To all whom it may concm:

Be it known that I, HERMAN F. MOORE, a

citizen of the United States, residing at Ventura, in the countyv of Ventura and State in relation to the other parts of the com? of California, have invented new anduseful Improvements in. Se\\i1ig-l\Iachines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a stitch forming `mechanism for sewing machiney especially adapted for sewing leather or other heavy ymaterial in which itis necessary to punch holes for the passage of the needle, and it consists particularly in a novel mechanism for drawing the upper thread through the punch holes in the leather and interhicking the threads to form a stitch. For-a clear understanding of the operation of the various partsof the stitch forming mechanism plete machine enough of the machine mech- :mism is illustrated to convey a complete ululerstanding of its operation.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification,-Figure,1, is a side elevation of' the machine. Fig. 2, is a longitudinal vertical section of the same. Fig. 3,- is a plan vie.' of the same. Fig. 4,-- is a horizontal longitudinal section taken on line 4 4 of Fig. 2. Fig. 5, is an end elevation of the machine. Fig. 6, is a vertical crosssection taken on line 6 6 of Fig. 2. Fig. 7,- is a vertical crosssection taken on line 7 7 of Fig. 2. Fig. 8,- is a vertical cross-section taken on line 8 8 of Fig. 2. Fig. 9, is an enlarged vertical longitudinal section of the shuttle mechanism. Fig.'10, tion taken on line 10 10 of Fig. t. Fig. 11,- is a sectional view of the bobbin. Figs. 12, 13 and 1l, are perspective views illust 'ating the different positions of the bohbin and the thread in forming the lock stitch. Fig. 15,- is an enlarged plan view of the thread manipulating mechanism in its Vnormal position. Fig. 16, is awview of the same in its moved position. is an enlarged side view of the mechanism of `ig. 16. Fig. 18,- is a. horizontal section taken on line 18-18 of Fig. 2. Fig. 19,- is a vertical cross-section taken on line is a horizontal sec- Fig. 17,--

SEWING-MACHINE.

n K Specificationy of Letters Patent. Patented Aug, 23, 1910,

.application'filed `June 2, 1908. Serial Ho. 436,247. i

finished stitch.

The complete machine consists broadly of, First a mechanism to Vpunch spaced holes in the leather or other articleV to be 19 of Fig. 18. Fig. 20,- is an enaggerated view showing the character of the the thread with the .needie when it has f the drawings 20 designates a base or table' preferably constructed hollow and open underneath- At one end this table carries a post 21 which is also hollow to contain the mechanism placed therein. At 'the upper end of post 21 a. horizontal yarm 22 is bolted and extends out over table 20 in the manner common to sewing machines. Table '20 carries an upright cylindrical shuttle case provided with a circular sewing tabler 24 on its upper end, this sewing table being directl)v below the outer end of armQQ.

,Performing medianismv. Mounted on the outer end of arm :22' is a horizon-tally oscillating awl :fra1`ne 30` carrying a vertical awlstandard 31 provided at its lower end with aV perforating awl 32. An operating arm 38 of the usual telescoping type is pivoted at 31 to the awl standard and is mountedon and operated from an'oscillating shaft` 35 which extends along the back side of the arm and into the post as illustrated. Inside the post an arm 36 is mounted on the shaft and a cam follower 3T is connected to the end of this arm by means of a connecting rod 38. The cam follower is supported by pivoted lever 39 and is adapted to follow groove 40 incam 41 mounted on vertical shaft 42 inside` posti 21.

f shaft 46 constitutes the main shaft ofthe machine and extends longitudinally through arm 22l and through the upper part of post 21,

balance wheel 47 anddrive wheel 48 being mounted on its outer end. Beveled gears 45 are of the same size and hence the awl is reclprocated once for each revolution of shaft 46. The reciprocaton is so determined that upon its downward movement awl 32 I punches through the leather 49, or other article upon sewing table 24, passing clear through the leather and into elongated slot 50 in the outer edge of the sewing table. As indicated in Fig. 5 the awl passes down into the slot at one end thereof. It is moved to-l ward theother end of the slot to a position directly over needle 51 by' the following mechanism, this movementserving to move leather 49 through the machine as the sewing progresses. Mounted on longitudinal shaft 46 at a point near awl frame 30 is a cam 55 having a cam groove 56 in its outer face asshown in F ig. 6. A cam follower 57 engages this groove and is mounted on au arm 58 connected to a sector 59 pivoted at 60 to the frame of the arm. A connecting bar 61 pivoted to frame 30 at 62 is adjustably connected as at 63 to sector 59. Upon the rotation of main shaft 46 sector'59 is oscillated and awl frame 30 is oscillated back and forth. The positionof cam 55 upon sions 66 on the awl frame. Elongated -slots i 67 are cut inthe arm to allow the desired movement of the awl standardv and, in following these slots, the awl standard oscillates the awl frame around screws 64 as sliding pivots. An elongated slot 68 is provided in a vertical direction through the awl frame to allow the passage of the thread downwardly therethrough.v

Needle 'mechants .-Needle 5l is secured in any suitable manner in a needle bar 75 which reciprocates vertically in ways 76 formed in the front part of '.he cylindrical easing 23 of the shuttle mechanism. The needle is reciprocated by yan oscillating shaft 77 mounted in the base of the machine, being chronously with shaft 46 it will be seen that needle 51 is reciprocated once for every revolution of shaft 46. The position of cam 79 upon shaft 42 is so arranged that needle 51 passes upwardly through the perforation in leather 49 immediately after punch 32 has been pulled out of the perforation. The upper end of the needle passes to a point considerably above the upper face of the leather and thread 83 is engaged with needle hook 84 by a mechanism to be hereinafter :le-

scribed. When this engaging operation has Y been completed the needle again moves downwardly carrying the thread with it into the position shown in the drawings. The needle again moves upwardly and the thread is removed by the shuttle. mechanism while the needle is stationary about midway be tween its extreme positions. This intermittent movement upwardly of the needle is accomplished by the shape of groove-80 in cam 7 9 as shown in dotted lines. then again moves upwardly to repeat the operation for the subsequent stitch.

Mechanism, for engaging the thread with he needle-This mechanism is shown in 'detail in Figs. 15, 16 and 17 and consists primarily of a thread eye 90 and a thread' hook 91 with mechanisms for manipulating them to throw the thread around the needle 1n the path of its hook when the needle' The needle passes above ieather 49. Thread eye is i mounted upon vertical oscillating shaft 92 which passes upa ardly into mechanism inclosing case 93 and is mounted upon a slotted lever 94 within the case. Lever 94 oscillates upon a stationary pin 95 in its slot and is actuated by a pivoted lever 96 connected to its end at 96. Lever 96 is connected by a rod 97 to cam follower arm 98 pivoted at 98', follower 99 on this arm engaging with groove 100 in cam 101 on main shaft- 46.

Thread hook 91 is mounted upon vertical oscillating shaft 102 which is mounted at its upper end on a slotted lever 103 pivoted at 104 to adjusting lever 105. Adjustino' lever 105 is pivoted at 106 to case 93 an its outer end extends toward the end of the machine arm and is provided with a small roller 107 which engages with a Vdiagonal slot 108 in foot bar 109, foot 110 normally resting upon the leather upon table 24. Slot 108 is disposed as shown in Fig. 5 so that roller 107 is thrown toward the left in Fig. 5 upon any upward movement of the foot on account of the increase in thickness of the leather. This movement of roller 107 moves pivot 104 toward pivot 111. Pivoted at 111 to case 93 is an arm 112 having pin 113 in its free end engaging with the slot in arm 103. Arm 112 is actuated through the medium of connecting rod 114 from a cam 115 mounted on main shaft 46. I)am follower arm 116, pivoted at 116 to the overhanging arm 22, is provided with a slotted Awhen necessary.

- 113 and pivot 111.

, necting rofl 114 to cam follower arm 116.

. tion shown in Fig. 16.

Thread S3passes through thread eye V90 as shown, the norma-l position of the mechanism being that illustrated in Fig. 15. The operating'cams for this mechanism are so .arranged in relation to each other and in relation to the operating mechanism of the needle that the following motions take place. dien thcneedle is reaching its highest position thread hook 91 is operated toward its position shown in Fig. 16 by cam 115, thread 83 being caught and pulled toward the posi- In the meantime the movement of thread eye 90 has been started from its position shown in Fig.'15 to that shown inFig. 16, the line of its travel being shown approximately by the dotted line in Fig. 16. This peculiar curved line of travel is caused by the sliding pivot of lever 94 on pin 95. Thread 83is thereby passed around the needle and held against it below its hook 84, the needl having meanwhile reached its highest position. The needle then begins to descend as shown in Fig. 17 and the. thread is caught inv its hook. As soon as this has been accomplished the thread eye and hook 91 move back to their positions of Fig. 15, and the. thread is carried downwardly by the needle. The movement of hook 91 is so timed that the thread is kept fairly tight during this downward movement of the needle and the amount of thread pulled out by the hook is sufficient to allow the needle to pass to its lowcrmost posit-ion as shown in Fig. 9. The reason for increasing or decreasing the amount of movement of the hook is now apparent.V Vith athick piece of leather thevamoant of thread required for a stitch is-more than with a thin piece and it is therefore desirable to pull out a slightly larger amount of thread. This is accomplished automatically and manually as above described.

Shuttle mechanism-The shuttle mechanism is illustrated in detail in Figs. 9 to 14,

its operating mechanism being shown in vFig. 4. Cylindrical case 23 incloses the which extends downwardly through. the base of the machine and is provided with a Y double opposed crank 121 upon its lower end. This crank is operated through the medium of connecting rods 122 and 123 which are appropriately connected, in such a manner as shown in Fig. 4, to be operated y by cams 124 and 125 respectively, both camsk being mounted upon shaft 42. vThe configurations of the grooves in these cams areV such as to give'the shuttle an intermittent rotation back and forth as will bedirectly explained. Shaft 120 carries upon its upper end a revolving hook- 126 in the form of a vcylindrical holder adapted to contain l ieosely a clrcular bobbin case 12x. As a conf venient means forfremoving the bobbin case a small plunger -head 128 1s arranged directly below it" having a plunger rod-129 passing downwardly through the hollow portion ofshaft 120 and connecting with a downwardly pressed ring 130 which is adapted to be raised by meansl of a hand lever 131. l

Bobbin case 12T is shown in sectional detail in Fig. 1l and is formed in two separable parts so thatbobbin 132 may be placed therein. Friction means 133 are provided within the bobbin case to put a proper tension upon thread 134, the. thread also passing out of the bobbiny case through a series ofv apertures 135 designed to provide a constant frictional tension. This thread passes upwardly through slot 50 and into leather 49, or, at the beginning of the operation of sewing, is merely pulled upwardly throughf the slot. "hen needle 51 is in the position shown in Fig. 9 hook or shuttle 126 begins 'Y to revolve in a direction indicated by thel arrows, thek bobbin case being held stationary by means vof thread 134. Hook 126 has a portion removed from its cylindrical wall v 141 at the outside of the tongue to catch the outer thread. On account ofy its adjustability the tongue may be placed to pass accurately between the portions of the thread. At the time ofv engagement of the thread needle 51 again moves upwardly and moves directly into circular slot 13T in revolving hook 126, and, as the thread is pulled oti' horizontally, when thek needle has reached a position such as shown iny Fig. 13 the thread is disengaged'from hook S4 of the needle. The thread is then in such a position as shown in Fig. 13, one part being pulled around bobbin case 127 on the inside of the revolving hook and the other part member 136.` Thread 83 is lthus carried around and underneath bobbin case'127 and finally comes to such a position as shown in Tao Fig. 14, when it'will be noted that it has been 'looped entirely around the bobbin 'casev and therefore around thread 134. A groove 142 under the edge of the bobbin case in the interior of the revolving hook facilitates the passage of the thread beneath by forming a` seat of reduced diameter for the bobbin-case, the edge of the case overhanging the seat as shown. 'hen the revolving hook comes back to its normal position the thread is hanging from slot 50 and is looped around thread 134. The needle is .'still in its position as shown in' Fig. 13 and it remains in that position until the thread 83 has been drawn'into the leather by the stitch tightening mechanism and a stitch is `formed yas `illustrated'in Fig. 20.

Stitch tightening mechanism-Pivoted at 150 to the lower part and one side of arm, 22 as shown 1n Fig. 2 1s a cam follower arm 151 carrying a cam follower 152 actuated by groove 153 in cam 154.' Pivoted on 'shafty 155 on the upper part of arm 22 and directly above pivot 150 is a lever 156 which extends downwardly and has aslotted adjustable pivot connection 157 with arm 151. A hori zontal arm 158 is rigidly attached to shaft 155 with lever 156 .and carries en its extreme outer end a pulley 159 over which thread 83 passes. at 161 on the upper part of the arm is operated by means of connecting bolt 162 in slot 163 of arm 158. Bent lever 160 carries a pulley 16-1 on its outer end under which thread 83 passes. Upon the actuation of cam follower 152 toward the left in Fig. 2 pulley 159 will be moved upwardly and pulley 164 downwardly so that the amount of thread between them is greatly increased. The thread necessary for this increase is drawn from the loose loop previously formed by the needle and shuttle mechanism, the thread being tightly clamped between stationary head 165 and a movable member 166 carrying on its lower end a roller 167 with which lug 168 on the face of cam 115 engages. At the same time that this operation of tightening the stitch takes place a small. pulley 169 mounted on an extension of lever 156 pulls downwardly upon thread 83 and draws a sufficient supply from one of spools 170 for the next stitch. Adjustable connection 157 provide-s means for regulating the amount of thread pulled up by the tightening mechanism, this amount being suited to the length of loose thread below. l

Foot mechanz'sm.-Foot bar 109 is vertically slidablymounted in the end of arm 22.' The foot bar is normally pressed down by a flat horizontal spring 180 assisted by A bent lever 160 pivoted the action of theadjustable weight 181 bearmg upon the spring at asmall distance from grow excessively stronger as leather 49 inn creases in thickness. A vertical slot 183 is provided in foot bar 109 and a small slideclutch or mpper 181 is adapted to reciprocate in this slot, a spring 185 normally keeping the nipper down against a stop 186 mounted on an upright bar 187 alongside the foot bar. Nipper 184 carries a lug 188 on one side'which is adapted to be actuated upwardly by a cam 189 mounted on the end of shaft 46, this cam being of the general configuration shown in Fig. 19. Slot 183 allows the foot to be raised or lowered for dilerent thicknesses of material without changing the position of clutch 184: with relation to cam 189. Upon the engagement of luglSS by cam 189 nipper 184 binds upon the foot bar and the footbar is raised with it. Cam 189 is so placed upon shaft 46 that the foot is raised to allow the awl to move the leather the distance of one stitch through the machine without any hindrance by the foot.. The foot is quickly dropped by cam 189 just after the Vawl has moved the leather and isjust at the point of being pulled upi wardly.

Auxiliary mechansm.-,There are two spools ofethread 170'mounted upon the machine, thread 83 being drawn from the front spool as before described and thread 200 d i from the rear one. Both of these threads pass through a wax pot 201 before passing into their respective mechanisms. yA frame 202 is mounted in the waX pot and the threads pass over these and into the wax in some such manner as shown in Fig. 2, passing through adjustable strippers 203 where the superfluous wax is removed from their surfaces. Thread 200 is for* the purpose of winding bobbins, one of which is shown in place on the bobbin Winder. This bobbin Winder provides means for automatically filling the bobbins full of 1thread and is operated through the medium of shaft 205 rotated bv belt 206 from balance wheel 47. Y

is normally held in engagement by plate 208 but'when the bobbin is filled with thread vplate 20S is forced outwardly until it no f gagement with prongs 211 and its rotation and the winding of the thread ceases. A

`small* inwardly projecting stop V214 formed integrally with plate 208 prevents the bobbin from being forced-entirely ott shaft 207. The indivldual operation of the parts in detail having been explained, the broad cooperation vis as lfollowsz-Awl 32 is first moved downwardly to puncha hole in the leather, foot 110 being removed from the leather just as the awl passes through' it. The awl then moves theV leather through the machine the distance of one stitch. The foot, then moves downwardly and holds 1 the leather while the awl is withdrawn. As the awl is withdrawn needle 51 passes up through the perforation and thread 83 is then looped around the needlel the hook in'tlienpper end of the needle catching the thread as the j needle passes downwardly. The loop in the threadis drawn throughthe leather by the downwardly moving needle. Xext, the shuttle mechanism operates to loop thread 83 around thread 134, thread 83 being meanwhile disengaged from the hook of the needle. Thread S3 is then drawn up tightly into the leather, drawing thread 131 in after it to the position shown in Fig. 0, thus forming a completed stitch. In the meantime enough thread has been drawn from the spool through the wax pot for the next stitch and the whole operation is repeated.

Having described myv invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. In mechanism of tlie'class decribed, an arcuate shuttle lhaving a gap in the wall thereof, an elevated sewing table, ay needle adapted to pass u and down through said sewing table and a y ording means for drawing a loop of thread down through said gap, means for rotating said shuttle back and forth on a vertical axis, said needle being adapted to release the thread under the action of said shuttle, a bobbin case within said shuttle `and having a thread passing therefrom, said shuttle atl'ording means for passing a part of said loop around said bobbin case, said shuttle having a vertically disposed tongue adapted to engage said loop, and means for adjusting said tongue on a vertical axis.

2. In mechanism of the class described, an elevated sewing table, a shuttle mounted to rotate back andfforth on a vertical axis disposed below said table, said shuttle being of arcuate form and having gap in the wall thereof, a needle, means for reciprocating said needle through said sewing table,

lease the loop while the thread is being i passed around said bobbin case by said shuttle.

3. In mechanism of the class described, an elevated sewing table, a shuttle mounted to rotate back and forth on a vertical axis disposed below said table, said shuttle being of arcuate form and having a gap in the wall thereof, a needle, means for reciprocating said needle through said sewing table, said needle having a notch in the side thereof adapted to form a loop at said gap with said needle disposed at a depressed point, a bobbin case mounted within said shuttle,` said shuttle affording means for engaging a lpart of said loop to pass the same around said bobbin case, and meansfor elevating said needle so as to enable said notch to release the loop while the thread is being passed around said bobbin case by said shut-l tle, said shuttle having a slot in the under side thereof adapted to receive said needle when said needle is elevated to disengage the loop from said notch. f

4. In mechanism ofthe class described, an elevated sewing table, a needle having a notch in the side thereof, means for passing said needle up and down through .said table, means for holding the thread against the side of said needle so as to be caught in said notch and drawn down through said table by said needle, a shuttle of arcuate form mounted to rotate back and forth on a substantially vertical axis and having a gap in the wall thereof, a bobbin case within said shuttle, said needle affording means for forming a loop of the thread drawn down from said table at said gap, said shuttle having means for engaging a part of said loop and passing the same around said bobbin case, and means for elevating said needle to enable the thread to be detached from said notch when the thread is being passed around said bobbin case by said shuttle.

5. A stitch forming mechanism, compris,y ing a revolving circular hook member, a deep circular groove in the under surfacev of said hook, a thread bobbin supported within the hook, frictional engaging means for the thread thereon, a needle hook mechanism adapted to pull a loop of thread through groove in the under surface of said hook,

a thread bobbin supported within the hook,

- fr'ctional engaglng riemi's for' fhe hread In witness that I claim the fG'lQlg 1 'l thereon, means to intermittently revolve the `have hereunto subscribed my name thlS 14H1' circular hook, n needle hook mechanism day of May, 1908. f A

HERMAN F MOORE.

f 5 material being sewed and Yto be projectevlitnessesz n into said groove during the rotation ofk said EDMUND A, STRAUSE, circular hook. ,Y 2 J AMES T. BARKBLEW.

adapted to pull a loop of thread through 

